One day on Earth

This blog should have been enlisted under 2012 as I should have written (am writing) my experience on my third and probably the last experience on "one day on Earth" project, 12.12.12 with UNDP Nepal.

Never been to Kakani before and never knew that Kakani was in Nuwakot. I always misconceived them to be two different places far far away from one another. Anyway journey began a day before 12.12.12 to Kakani. In mere 2 hours ride in a big UN white vehicle we were in Kakani's guest house so contrary to what I've imagined a hotel to be. Chilly and absolutely out of place to be Taragaon.

We un-equipped ourselves and set out for a quick tour through Okharpauwa village in Nuwakot down west from the hotel I stayed. A cute village but way rural than conception I had in my mind. I was further flabbergasted to see kids running along the vehicle bare feet and just a shirt on in some cases in December, while I was all jacketed and sweatered. All the people designating me ma'am and sharing their experiences of  their involvement in producing and trading cash crops like strawberries, roses and peas instead of their regular crops. I love it when I see Nepalese benefiting from agriculture. May be it is because my country is largely an Agriculture based country and in my heart somewhere there is a farming hermit. Plus it is also a slap to faces who say there is no opportunity in this country.

The next morning we woke up as early as we could to film the sunrise and the magnificent Ganesh Himal. I was the camera person for the whole project, did I mention that earlier? There was a beautiful sunrise between trees but apropos Ganesh Himal it was not a lucky that day for me.

We had a quick breakfast of fried rice and tomato soup to fuel ourselves enough for the all day long shoot and also to return back the same day. Walked up and down the hills of Nuwakot with my camera gear, filmed the humble farmers, their families and their unimaginable farm. I was just blown away and so was my sister Priti who was in charge of all the film production. She later made a short film on our tour to Nuwakot farming too. Basically that is what we were there for. https://vimeo.com/57041358

We had taken needful technical precautions and learned from our last year mistakes during similar project in Biratnagar. It was one hell of a ride back then.

All the filming, interviews, photography ended with well served meal of dhido and saag, a debut meal for me and my sister.

Although the trip sounds flawless we did have some hiccups like, road was narrow and bumpy that I was frightened to look out of the window the cliff below. I had this terror that one wrong move and we would all tumble down the hill nowhere to be found in one piece. Then there was a time where the width of a road was not enough to pass that big car and the villagers have to build a passable road. Then again, I am famous for clumsy walking and stumbling and people laughing at my mess.

It was a marvel filming trip. We rewarded ourselves munching fresh strawberries and peas right out of the farm and also rewarded our families back home with purchase of strawberries, peas, cauliflowers, etc.

Chewar

I attend typical Magar Chewar last Sunday and I was very much thrilled to see the ritual performed in a cowshed. As being born and raised in Kathmandu itself, I reckoned how I and my relatives are so far away from our ethics and value. I have seen lots of Chewars (bartaman) of boys in the family. We have followed the typical bahun-chettri customs, which is much-elaborated celebrations unlike what I witnessed now.
Brihaspati Thapa, my friend's son, is a handsome boy. He was looking absolutely awesome in his dhaka topi and daura suruwal made of textile called kaash. He was very happy that day.
His Mama (Maternal uncle) took him to a cow shed, tied him there with damlo (rope) assuming he was a cow, although all his family elders teased him to be goru (ox). Then Mama has him herbs hold in his mouth, which he is supposed to clasp between his lips (as if he was a real cow and chewing grass) throughout the head-shaving ritual. After shaving Brihaspati's head, Mama gave him new clothes and money as dakshina. Then the boy was asked to choose his favourites among; books, pens, fruits, khukuri etc. The shy boy pondered for a while and chose "Elementry Chemistry book". "Oh this means he will be a master saheb (teacher) just like his father, his elder cousin mocked him and laughter shook the weak walls of the shed.
The Chewar was over within half an hour which was followed by giving him tika (red forehead marking) by all his family members, relatives and eventually by my mother, also giving his presents for this initiation ceremony.
According to Brihaspati's aunt, Celebrant is tied as cow in shed made him chew herbs while shaving his head, because before chewar boys are like animals (I hope she meant cute animals like puppy, hehe). Undergoing/observing this ritual leads him to manhood and also qualifies him to participate in the death rites when his parents die.

Amchi Conference

I attended a conference today at Martin Chautari on Tibetan Medicine and healers. 4 Tibetan Medicine scholars led it;

Dr. Sienna Craig, Dartmouth College

Calum Blaikie, University of Kent

Barbara Gerke, Humbolt University

Theresia Hofer, University of Oslo.

They came to Nepal as THE HIMALAYAN AMCHI ASSOCIATION, which was founded in 1998. Also partly supported by Ministry of Health and CTEVT.

It was 8 daylong workshop programme on “Making Efficacious Medicines”. Amchis (Tibetan medical doctors) from various parts of Nepal, India and Tibet participated and shared their experience. Educated one another about their recipe of medicines, so and so forth. Unfortunately I did not get chance to participate in the workshop but I attended last day talk at Martin Chautari.

Dr. Sienna, Calum, Barabara and Theresia took their turn and explained about the situation of Tibetan Medicines and amchis in Nepal, China, Tibet and India.

Here are the few interesting points that I found interesting and jotted down as notes:

- I always had misconception that Ayurveda and Tibetan medicine were same.

-To become an Amchi, one has to excel in botany, geography, geology, chemistry, trading (sell them), and also at the end in teaching.

Botany- to identify the plants/herbs

Geography/Geology- to understand what plants grow at which climate or palces

Chemistry: Knowledge of proportion of several herbs to make medicine.

Trading: right skill to sell the medicines

Teaching: Teach medical studies to the generation next.

-According to Amchis, their laboratory is their tongue. They taste to test the quality and efficacy of the ingredients.

-Amchis are constantly working on finding substitutions for the must-ingredients from endangered animals like rhino horn, tiger paw, elephant gallbladder etc. And same goes for the endangered plants too. Meanwhile, lots of fake ingredients are also in market to influence. For eg: vendor rub sandal wood on normal wood and sell it as sandal wood.

-Amchis in India, China and Tibet no more medicines on their own. Factories do their job. This is one of the demerits, due to the institutionalization after their government recognized/certified the Tibetan medicine and its practice.

-Tibetan Medical Hospitals in China and Tibet are blooming in comparison to Nepal, where Tibetan Medical practice is still to be recognized and certified by Government. Hospitals there receive 300 patients everyday. Their factories produce 100 different types of medicines everyday. But there is no practice of cultivation of herbs for future. Consequently, these herbs will extinct in next 20 years.

-Bulk (70%) of the Tibetan medicine ingredients are exported from Nepal, and rest 30% from other parts of the world (Tibet, India, China).

-Nepal Gov doesn’t even know the term “Amchi”, although the practice has existed in Nepal for 1000 years. Due to the dialect problem Amchis of rural areas of Nepal are not organized or institutionalized and still are individuals. Somehow, Amchis from all over Nepal need to come together as a team. They have to work and understand one another and voice their way to get approval from Government.

For that, Amchis at least need to make medicines and prove that they scientifically and practically will cure certain chronic disease.

Also delineate merits of Tibetan medicine v/s western medicine.

-Does one need to be Buddhist to practice Tibetan Medical Science, because Rimpoches (Buddhist masters) empower every medicine before distribution? The empowerment ritual is called Wong.

-What role does empowerment play in medicine? Do Tibetan medicines need mandatory empowerment? Does the process increase the value of Tibetan medicine or is it ok just to use them without empowering?

-According to SOWA RIGPA; medical science should be separated from religion.

-According to Amchis in Lhasa: One doesn’t have to be monk to practice Tibetan medical science. HH Dalai Lama supports it too.

As a sum up, it was wonderful experience to participate in the conference. I learnt many things besides just knowing how to spell amchi.

Other thing that fascinated me was the questions from Anthropology students. Sienna and team were really mesmerized at the participation and interest.

From my past experience at various conferences, the question-answer round was really funny in a bad way, because there, journalist never failed to make fool out of themselves with the kind of questions they ask.

Filming again

Today I had to go film Kristina, my cousin sister, at Kathmandu Durbar Square.

She wore a red Nepali dress with yellow patuki (sash), Priti applied beautiful make-up on her. She was looking so pretty, like any Barbie doll.

We filmed her at Kaal Bhairav, on rickshaw, feeding pigeon at the square etc. And wherever we went, she would soon be surrounded by tourist to take her picture. To photograph and film themselves with her. Everyone turned to me to praise her, her patience and her enigma. They almost took them home.

Although she was very enthusiastic about she coming into camera, she was kind of going out track. There was a point when I started losing my temper because she was not following what I was saying. Then again I realized, bichara, she is giving her best, without any homework. Haha.

Her father (my uncle) knew how to handle her better. She is his daughter after all. So, he did a dance-walk to show how she should be performing for my camera. How she should laugh. How she should not stop when the camera is still rolling. So on and so forth. I wish I too had that in my mind.

It was a nice 2 hour shoot.

I really have to develop my skill when it comes to being patient with others.

One Day on Earth..11.11.11

It was early morning of 11.11.11. The very first morning in Biratnagar. Priti and I were picked up at 7:30 from the Swagatam hotel to go on filming trip for UNDP. It was nice warm November morning, unlike a Kathmandu one. Latif and Guna tagged along with us from UNDP office out there. Latif is head of UNIRP and Guna, ex-water system engineer, now works under Latif on various projects.
Wonderful road, empty road, no traffic jams like in Kathmandu, and speed of 80 kilometer per hour. Most prominent trespassers were bicycles, rickshaw-wallas, and tractors. It was rare and for-a-change kind of view for us.
UNDP hired us for “One Day on Earth Project , 11.11.11.”. This year’s theme was to film ex-combatants who are being supported by United Nations Interagency Rehabilitation Programme (UNIRP) to reestablish their life as civilians after being forced to leave Maoist Military camp. It is one of the missions headed under UNDP and under it, ex-combatants receive training like tailoring, cooking, or certain amount to open a retail shop, depending upon the interest and capability of the individual. 4008 combatants expelled from camp in 2010, fall under VMLR (Verified Minors and Late Recruits).
The day earlier, we went to UNIRP office to meet Latif and his team for next day’s project. This was my first encounter with everyone and even the notion of the project that I was going to film on 11.11.11. Everyone started to explain what they do. Related and unrelated, both. They kept using unfamiliar words/works they do for UNIRP. So, more than half of the things were flying over my head, due to delayed flight and hunger as well. At the end, or also I would rather say, at the 11th hour, I received handful of reading material. We had to check in hotel, read all those papers and prepare question and rush to field very early morning! Wallah!! What a fab job!! Thank you UNDP for not giving me all these materials in prior for study, although I kept asking about it for weeks. They also warned that the ex-combatants we meet might go aggressive if asked sensitive questions. That is what we had to keep in mind while compiling questions.
Our first destination was Ramganj, Sunsari. A remote village of Musars. They are rat-eaters, or musa-eaters as we say in Nepali, hence termed Musars. A simple villagers, who work at somebody else’ land all day, to meet their two meals a day need. Interviewed a boy who owned a retail shop. He received financial help of 40,000 from UNIRP. He said he was doing well and his father seems to be happier with the support he received. Priti gelled very well with Tharu women and kids. She spoke to them in Hindi while they kept replying in Maithili. It was pretty hilarious situation. If Latif had to explain the situation he would say, “It was pretty hilarious Priti.” He immediately got fond of our names, Nikki-Priti. He used word “pretty” to describe every situation just to tease Priti.
After an hour of filming, we went to the Training center near Itahari. That too went good. We stopped by Gorkhali Departments for lunch. It was only famous store in Itahari. Not just for Itaharians, but also for its neighbor districts like Dharan, Biratnagar, and Inaruwa. Clean and healthy ambiance, grocery store, ice cream parlor, nice food court, etc. There Latif asked our drive to take photos of him, Priti and me together. He asked us to stand on either side. C’mon!! How would 4 feet 9 inches tall girls look on either side of 6 feet Afgan man? Not to forget bulky too. Photo looked pretty hilarious and odd.
Third destination was another remote place called Dangighat. It is on the way to Jhapa pass Khursane from Itahari. We interviewed a very polite mother of two kids. I think she was as young as 22. Her husband is still in camp as combatant in Bharatpur. She received 7 weeks tailoring training from UNIRP. And now she has one-man tailor shop of her own at her bamboo house.
In route to different destination, we would talk about several issues that these ex-combatants had faced after they were expelled. They were promised a fairy tale life by whoever, which of course never came true. But yet their hopes for it are still alive.
Latif never missed a chance to flaunt his new Ipad. Sometimes to check mail, to take our photos and once in a while to interview us and himself. We recorded a nice video on it. Hopefully he will send us the photos and videos when he returns from Nepalgunj next week.
Finally, we went to Inaruwa, to catch a last interview with a young cook, one of the VM (Verified Minors). He was quite interesting and confident. He was recruited by best hotels in Biratnagar and Morang immediately on completion of training. Even his recent owner confirmed, his business rose after this boy took command in his kitchen. He had tons of stories to share and my camera battery was dying. Bummer.
I had checked out of hotel morning so that I could stay with Nikki Chaudhary’s family after that shoot. We all came back to our respective places. Refreshed. Relaxed. Had dinner. Then I downloaded all the films on my computer. I reviewed them in tit-a-bit and started panicking. Priti freaked out. We had some major problems in filming. Darn, I am so dead. I immediately called Latif in middle of his dinner. I told him I had this stupid problem and I need to re-shoot all of them. Tomorrow, I need to do it Tomorrow. He asked to come see him next morning. I was too impatient and worried. I rang him again and asked if I could go see him right then. In 10 minutes, I was there. He could immediately figure out I was worried. And worried beyond extent. I showed him footages on my camera. I thought I would outburst. But he was quite, calm and experienced guy. He has gone through all kind of problems, he said. He told me stories on the worst thing has happened to him and he managed to come out of them with cool head. And he would take care of everything and easily get permission if I had to reshoot. Also, I could cry or scream then and there, to tone down my panic. I went back home with all his kind words and console.
Priti was tired and asleep. I couldn’t sleep, so, I turned on computer watched all the footages. And as I kept watching my mood started lifting up. Because I saw less and less flaw. At the end of the footage, I knew only the first part, the Ramganj one, had problem. I texted Latif late night explaining the situation, and went to bed happily. I carefully ran my fingers into Priti’s hair and said, everything is all right, we have done our best. Of course she didn’t hear that because she was under sound sleep. Inside my mind, I planned few things on how to start movies and what the flow should be.
Saturday, we went on tour to Dharan with Nitesh and aunty. It was a pleasure to see the places, where we had never been to.
And I am back home today, after quick re-shoot at Ramganj.

Exhibition "Separating Myth from Reality"

“Separating Myth from Reality—The status of Woman” is the title of exhibition that I was looking forward for the long time. The exhibition that I had worked hard to put together. The exhibition which is metaphor for the world that still has traditional trajectories and prejudices that have bound women and restrict them from realizing their innate potential.

More than 94 artist and photographers had contributed in the show at 6 different venues in Kathmandu and Patan. It was very pleasant and proud to see the arts and artifacts done by emerging Nepali artist from Lalit Kala Campus and Kathmandu University. All the student participants were younger to me and gave me a serious complexity with their talent.

TLK had provided 10 photos for exhibition, from his book “Fallen Angels-The Sex Workers of South Asia”. Plus 18 copies of the same book. The book he is very proud of, that showcases the 10 years tenure of 10 Photographers along with 8 writers and over 20 stories of sex workers of South Asia.

Very much excited to be the part of the show. Had a very busy and exhausting morning as Sangeeta Thapa has summoned us to be at Art Council at 1 PM, even though the inauguration event was scheduled for 3, to help her putting up photos and captions.

Until 1:15 I was having upsetting chat conversation over googlemail.

Quarter past one. Driver was missing. He was off to airport to drop Mrs. VCD, and we were all late for the show. Quickly finished up my instant noodles and ran to taxi stand. Thank god! Taxi driver knew where the art council is, as I hardly remembered where the big building stood.

Here we are Mr. Nepal Art Council!!

Repeatedly asking, “Where is Mrs. Thapa”, at every storey of Nepal art council, till I reached atop. Where the venue was set for the opening of the show. Seeing me, arrived, she jumped towards me explaining why our captions were not set along side the photos yet. She quickly ran downstairs to know the whereabouts of the captions. All the photos were nicely put. Arranged the way we wanted. I quickly ran through all the main photographers of the show in the venue. And my eyes were caught by some of the fashion photography of Nepali Photographer Kashish Das Shrestha, based out of New York. Who I noticed later during the ceremony with his camera. A gentleman indeed!
His imagery were unique amidst over all mourning photos of women. For it showed more of a vamped women walking Fashion Ramp. One of his photos that I really liked was “sharply focused hands clapping at blurred models walking on the left.” I wish I had camera when I was there so that I could share it here.

There was nothing much to do to help at council. Everything was set fine. So, Priti and I decided to navigate through the photos and on-going preparation downstairs. The first thing anybody noticed was rice sprouting out of river sand (see the pic, cant define the structure hehe), making Wel-Come notation. Followed by Kishor Kayastha’s work. Pretty intrinsic and set up collage photos. His mud plastered model, portrayed women in various dispositions of life, and the black canvas frame just complimented the moods.

Modern arts by Indian and Pakistani artist ornate the first floor. They natured women’s vulnerability, gender discrimination, oppression, prejudice and also happiness for change in some. Theme of most of them just flew above my head and could barely figure out if they were hung alright or upside down.
Surfing through Nepali artist’ works, I thought of my BFA friend CMS. I wish he too had contributed his work here. I know one of his paintings on motherhood would just fit well in the flow of the show.

Ceramic artifacts by Netherlands artist broke the monotony of Photography and modern art. Pink phallus motifs, black bosom and colourful tiny sperms hung across wall were absolutely creative. Wondered, what was she thinking when she designed that? What could be the message behind them? Mystery!!

Mrs. Thapa was finally back, with tags for our imagery. They had no information about the photos except for the image ID. She apologized the print failure putting all the blame upon our file that didn’t open up on her computer. That was not done! She could have notified the accident prior to show. We could have sent her the other file or seek out alternative. I was pissed off at her NO-CARE attitude.

Finally the show started at quarter past three, upon arrival of Ex-PM Surya B. Thapa. All the dignitaries were respectively seated and all of them addressed the show as their turn came up. Followed, the song by a 20 year old Gandarva lady and Rashmila Shakya, the Ex-|Royal-Kumari (the living goddess of Nepal). She was divine at the tender age of 3 through 12th year, and now dumped into mortal world. She is an IT designer at one of the leading company in Nepal. She was pretty and her cheerful face glowed as she shared her memories of being Kumari. I liked her simple English in Newari tonality. Reminded me of a dear friend, CMS, who I had noticed speaking Japanese similarly over phone. This was the second time I missed CMS during the show. And somehow I had already managed, to making him feel sorry for missing this wonderful International SHOW over and over again.

This was the first ever international photography show happening in Nepal. To my disappointment, the show was slightly messy and lack of co-ordination was noticeable.
I have planned to visit all the six venues through 6th of November. With that also looking fwd for another grand show in 2011.

Oye! It's Friday

Its Friday, the weekend. And my Yahoo Messenger’s status is set to TGIF, Thank God Its Friday! And luckily Friday happens to be my favorable according to my astrology chart as well.

Here is one of the evidence on how lucky is Friday for me.

As usual I was chating with my friend Nikki Chaudhary between my work at office. My boss should never realize that I am misusing office's internet service on chat and not to forget FACEBOOK surfing. She is my only e-pal who is lady and I met her on HI5. She added me to her friend list, because we shared same name and both of us’ are named NIKKI, which is just 'Nikki', and not a short form to Nikita, Nicole, or Nicholas so and so fourth.

Nikki and I talk about everything under sun. From pulling leg to giving serious advices on life philosophy. From ex boy friend to existing one. From hair style to toe’s nail polish. We both are blessed with exceptional ability of gossiping.

Today, we were talking about Tharus, the clan she belongs to. She was correcting and educating me about Tharus, and their sharp distinction from Madhesi and Thakuris of Terai.
Man! Madhesi and Tharus are one of the hot political turmoil in Nepal, these days. They are tussling with one another for their individual existence.

I mentioned her that she was the second Tharu friend of mine, where as first is Anjana Jha. There, she explained me that Jha doesn’t belong to Tharu clan. She paused a while and said, “Did u say Anjana Jha? Is she one of the four sister-siblings of Mrs. Archana?” Astonished me hit back, “YES, DEAR.” She exclaimed, “oh my good”, and continued describing me Anjana’s family tree. I am equally perplexed by then with my mouth wide-open. Wonder, what if my office was also favourite housing for flies and mosquitoes.

She gave me link to Mrs. Archana’s family photo. Archana didi has such close resemblance to Anjana, that, I hollered, “Yes Nikku we are talking about the same Anjana”. TOO BAD! That she wouldn’t hear my ecstatic screaming, for we were text chating without web cam.

Anjana, Suku and myself, were three close musketiers of 1999 through 2001 batch of I.Sc. at Tri Chandra College. And I had almost lost in touch with Anjana until today, when I finally called her up, after such nostalgic conversation about her with Nikki pal. Where as I am off and on on phone with Suku Gurung, now famous as Mrs. Suku Gurung Gautam and mommy to Priyanka and babu. Damn! I don't even know what her son's name is.

Oh I almost forgot to mention, Archana didi is wife of very dear friend of Krishna Chaudhary, who I didn’t catch name of. And Krishna Chaudhary is hubby dear of Nikki Chaudhary. And That is how, Archana didi is vauju of Nikki Chaudhary.

Today, if I really believed the world is round, then, I would say this story of rendezvous with Anjana via Nikki Chaudhary is one of the evident.

But, this is not the first time that Nikki Chaudhary and I had collided astonishing one another with common friends. It started one and a half year ago with Sujan Thapa.

Sujan Thapa is my buddy, who went to an Engineering college with Nikki Chaudhary when she was doing her BIT at Nepal Engineering College..
Saroj Regmi, who I knew through Sujan, has been Nikki Chaudhary’s classmate during her time in Nepal Engineering College.
Dipesh Siwakoti, another e-pal, was senior to Nikki Chaudhary at Nepal Engineering College..
Persis Prasai, my childhood friend, is Nikki Chaudhary’s idol, because she was topper of Nepal Engineering College, who she calls Persis didi.

And now Anjana Jha. Wow! I am loving it. Enormously!!

Readers may not find this blog so enticing but it was overwhelming encounter for me.

HaPp¥ FrIdA¥!!