Our Very Own Hanuman Dhoka Durbar

 It was the time and Uma visited Nepal in Fall 2014. We met in person for the first time after we have chatted and facebooked for 2 years and (point to be noted) she made me wait for at least 45 minutes in front of Fire and Ice restaurant on that day. On top of that she didn’t even care to offer me the famous Fire and Ice Pizza. I am going to tease her more when I meet her online next time. We ran around here and there to meet my friend without any success. We decided to take rickshaw to Kathmandu Durbar Square. It was a tough ride while people poured in in enormous number everywhere to shop for Dashain Festival. One festival you have to buy new dress no matter how many piles of dress you have at home. We sat on paati, a Nepali shelter, to exchange gifts. She brought me nail polishs, lipsticks, t-shirt and chocolates. I gave her silver earrings that she is ever fond of. Later she complained that she lost one of them. How Sad. Did I mention that we met through a Nepali Food portal and a common friend who de-friended both of us later. We still laugh as we ponder why did she feel need of doing that. Anyhoo, back to the tour of that day.

It was almost quarter to 4 in the evening then out of nowhere she decided to go see museum inside Hanuman Dhoka Palace. Although I have lived in Kathmandu for all my life, I never took chance to visit the museum. I said why not, sure I am a big fan of Monarchs and Royals. King Prithivi Narayan Shah is supreme, but do not ask me his birth date or when he annexed different mini kingdoms to finally unify it.

What a tour it was, re-visiting history. All the history classes in school kept haunting back to me in grandeur. We mocked miss-spellings and miss-translation every time we encountered one. But it’s a Nepali way, we have difficult time in discerning the words that are pronounced similarly but has different meaning and spelling altogether. (I don’t the term for that, hence explaining).

I had wonderful time, so amazed to see rare photos, first Nepali Newspaper Gorkhapatra, Royal Wedding attire and accouterment, Royal Ritual attire, Royal Thrones, what various King’s office and bedroom look like, their swords and hunting tools, Royal belongings, Royal library, political previews, you name it and it was there. So vast visual treat of 1000 years of history in an hour tour through the maze of tunnels, stairs, doors that interconnected all the buildings with the view of Nasal chowk, Mul Chowk, Taleju temple, freak market right across the street, and also the 9 storey Basantapur tower.

Very happy us took merry photos at one of the chowks, because taking photos were prohibited inside building.

 

And then it was time when we had the brutal earthquake on Spring 2015 of seven point nine. I heard Dharahara and Hanuman Dhoka Palace collapsed. I didn’t believe there was an iota of truth on such destruction news until the newspaper arrived next morning. So heartbreaking to see the fall and people buried under its rubble. I went to see around the palace on the 12^th day, lots of the places inside the vicinity were forbidden. Volunteers were clearing up the rubbles. There were few American journalists who flocked in to do piece on earthquake interweaving the Living Goddess Kumari. I wonder what they would extract from few year old Kumari.

The main concern remains about retrieving the valuables inside the dilapidated palace. Everyone is giving their own ideas on how to protect those are trapped behind fissured walls. I had thoughts that we would get rid of aftershocks in a month, but no it has not stopped yet and it could continue for longer than I have imagined, and it has only worsened the worse.

Local and International disaster assessment specialists have come together to set plans on how to fetch all the endangered valuables from the fragile historical Malla Palace, some parts of which are balanced precariously. Among the valuables the main problem are massive thrones, which needs at least 10 people to carry them in and out. Above all when monsoon hits this rescue mission might just not materialize and forces lose all our history, which are not only important but also precious for Nepalese.

200 familes of Rasuwa District refugeed in Nuwakot.

Camps for 200 families from Hakku Village, Ward No# 8, Rasuwa at Saatbisey in Nuwakot.

200 families of Haku village, Ward# 8, of Rasuwa district were displaced due to earthquake. Their houses were obliterated and they are now resettled in plastic tents in Saatbisey of Nuwakot. These people of Tamang enthnicity have lived their entire life in upper hilly region, now bound to live under plastic tent at this peak Summer time of 40 degree celsius. I feel that Rasuwa an isolated district with population less than 50,000 with frequent Gosaikunda visitors every monsoon, and completely cut off from what it feels like to be living in humid zone like Nuwakot.
I could guess most of the Rasuwa youth are migrant labours because the families there mostly comprised of women, children and elders. Elders spoke their native language and some broken Nepali. However children spoke shyly spoke Nepali. 

Every children complained about diarrhoea and every elder complained about headache. I reckon it is due to excess heating of plastic tents they are living inside. Dehydration and clean drinking water is yet another problem. I asked one of the ladies how do you manage to buy/get meals everyday? She gawked at me for few seconds and turned her head away. It stood me speechless and stupid for that impromptu question. I was inquisitive because I didn't see any ration store nearby.  All I see are Hills and a faded veiw of Mt. Langtang. The same Mt. Langtang that was house hold name for these people until 4/25 or until they were dispatched here in Nuwakot.

Children were in abundance. Mostly below 12. Although they looked like 10 to me they said they were 12. They were playing around Unicef tent, a humongous one in front of those teepee types made out of plastic tarps. Unicef tent was set up as play station for those kids, but alas it was not equipped with toys or books and most certainly always locked. No staff nothing whatsoever.

Well we have this situation that we are still getting aftershocks after one month and one week of massive earthquake and its dastardly deeds. May be it was a right choice to shift these Tamang community to Nuwakot. And then we are worried about upcoming monsoon, very much devoured by each Nepalese otherwise. Thankfully there has not been any cholera, diarrhoea or respiratory epidemic, not just in this camp but anywhere.

People have no choice but to manage in these tents temporarily. My main concern remains, will they be able to go back to their homeland? What if Government people easily neglect these guys. With the news like Finance Minister Dr. Ram Sharan Mahat stealing the tin sheets donated by Nepal Investment Bank and Prachanda's daughter, Renu Dahal, stealing food/shelter that were specially meant for these survivors, can we foresee them being reinhabited to their Rasuwa? I don't want to designate the term victim to anyone who survived this massive earthquake. But these rural villages' survivors are surely falling prey to many of 601 hawks and apperentice hawks. There is no better term for them but be called victims. It's like tragedy from all around.

All I wish is Goverment confirm that their original place is livable, transport them back there and give the money they promised to build homes.

Thank God it was Tuesday

And there goes the second one of 7.1, when were well immuned to 4 to 5 magnitude of aftershocks.
Thank God it was Tuesday. The Ganapati fasting day for me and Priti. 12:45 it was, when we were basking in the sun, laughing with Spring breeze and enjoying our haluwa lunch at balcony. Karpo, dog at office, yelped. I was annoyed. I yelled back at Karpo.

Again it was Priti who realized the quake before me. She stopped chewing, with mouthful of haluwa shouted, bhuichalo. My immediate reaction, NOPE.

She ran inside, as we had to rush one storey down. The haluwa bowl landed on the hallway chest. I did the same following her un-worded instruction. I recall only two sounds filling in the space then; rattlling of window glasses and Priti screaming, Nikki Dijju aaisyo (Come Nikki). I halted for a while in front of office door, thinking I should take shelter under door. Then I ran behind Priti who was waiting for me on stairway. My next halt was mid-stairway. What was I thinking? Priti grabbed my hand, with all her strength, ushered me outside. My boss, his son and rest of the housekeepers were screaming our names one after the other until we made it out. Earth was still rocking underneath us. Everybody's voices were shaking. Trees were swaying to whichever direction they pleased.

Both of our mobile phones were left upstairs. I borrowed somebody else's phone and dialed family numbers insanely to reach them. I later figured out they did the same. There followed several aftershocks. Finally I could connect to my dad and brother and found out they were unharmed. I mustered sufficient courage to back into the office building and bring my stuff out so that I could go home, becuase Priti insisted that we head out to home ASAP. But somehow my boss managed to convince her that we wait for at least an hour and take office vehicle to home. That is what we did.

Every Nepalese are more terrified after the second one, than the first hit, because we were convinced that cataclysmic of such magnitude would not re-occur but however had presaged and were prepared for month long aftershocks.

The Good, The Bad and The Weird

I looked at Priti, she was removing her nail paint rubbing the cotton on her toe nail. Priti glanced a shocked look at me. Screamed “vuichalo aayo” (Earthquake). We both jumped off the bed and ran to living room. My uncle and dad were about to run outside, but failed. Severe tremor rocked us. I yelped at everyone not to run out. Uncle grabbed the main door, dad grabbed him, I hold onto my dad. Priti jumped cover grand pa still lying on bed. She was terrified that window might fall on him. I don’t remember if my mom who was carrying 3 month old neice grabbed me or my dad from behind. She doesn’t remember either. I could hear terrible cracking sound of termor. I saw turtle aquarium water splashing out as if it had hit tide. I closed my eyes. Chanted Gayatri Mantra along with my mom and dad. May be my grandma was chanting it too who was still holding to the door of her bedroom. Priti might have been chanting the same as she protected shievering grandpa. My uncle and aunty who was still upstairs with two of the three children might have frantically chanted the mantra too. With every chant I wish earth stopped rocking. But it just continued until 1 minute may be. I imagined it lasted hour. And it was the longest 1 minute of my life. And it will always be. Not just for me but for every people who beared it.
Priti and I were watching The Good, The Bad and The Weird, the Korean adaptation of Clint Eastwood’s famous The Good, The Bad and The Ugly. Hence the title.
We were half an hour through movie and was started to getting excited, but the tremor took it all. I don’t think I will ever complete that movie.

One day on Earth

This blog should have been enlisted under 2012 as I should have written (am writing) my experience on my third and probably the last experience on "one day on Earth" project, 12.12.12 with UNDP Nepal.

Never been to Kakani before and never knew that Kakani was in Nuwakot. I always misconceived them to be two different places far far away from one another. Anyway journey began a day before 12.12.12 to Kakani. In mere 2 hours ride in a big UN white vehicle we were in Kakani's guest house so contrary to what I've imagined a hotel to be. Chilly and absolutely out of place to be Taragaon.

We un-equipped ourselves and set out for a quick tour through Okharpauwa village in Nuwakot down west from the hotel I stayed. A cute village but way rural than conception I had in my mind. I was further flabbergasted to see kids running along the vehicle bare feet and just a shirt on in some cases in December, while I was all jacketed and sweatered. All the people designating me ma'am and sharing their experiences of  their involvement in producing and trading cash crops like strawberries, roses and peas instead of their regular crops. I love it when I see Nepalese benefiting from agriculture. May be it is because my country is largely an Agriculture based country and in my heart somewhere there is a farming hermit. Plus it is also a slap to faces who say there is no opportunity in this country.

The next morning we woke up as early as we could to film the sunrise and the magnificent Ganesh Himal. I was the camera person for the whole project, did I mention that earlier? There was a beautiful sunrise between trees but apropos Ganesh Himal it was not a lucky that day for me.

We had a quick breakfast of fried rice and tomato soup to fuel ourselves enough for the all day long shoot and also to return back the same day. Walked up and down the hills of Nuwakot with my camera gear, filmed the humble farmers, their families and their unimaginable farm. I was just blown away and so was my sister Priti who was in charge of all the film production. She later made a short film on our tour to Nuwakot farming too. Basically that is what we were there for. https://vimeo.com/57041358

We had taken needful technical precautions and learned from our last year mistakes during similar project in Biratnagar. It was one hell of a ride back then.

All the filming, interviews, photography ended with well served meal of dhido and saag, a debut meal for me and my sister.

Although the trip sounds flawless we did have some hiccups like, road was narrow and bumpy that I was frightened to look out of the window the cliff below. I had this terror that one wrong move and we would all tumble down the hill nowhere to be found in one piece. Then there was a time where the width of a road was not enough to pass that big car and the villagers have to build a passable road. Then again, I am famous for clumsy walking and stumbling and people laughing at my mess.

It was a marvel filming trip. We rewarded ourselves munching fresh strawberries and peas right out of the farm and also rewarded our families back home with purchase of strawberries, peas, cauliflowers, etc.

Chewar

I attend typical Magar Chewar last Sunday and I was very much thrilled to see the ritual performed in a cowshed. As being born and raised in Kathmandu itself, I reckoned how I and my relatives are so far away from our ethics and value. I have seen lots of Chewars (bartaman) of boys in the family. We have followed the typical bahun-chettri customs, which is much-elaborated celebrations unlike what I witnessed now.
Brihaspati Thapa, my friend's son, is a handsome boy. He was looking absolutely awesome in his dhaka topi and daura suruwal made of textile called kaash. He was very happy that day.
His Mama (Maternal uncle) took him to a cow shed, tied him there with damlo (rope) assuming he was a cow, although all his family elders teased him to be goru (ox). Then Mama has him herbs hold in his mouth, which he is supposed to clasp between his lips (as if he was a real cow and chewing grass) throughout the head-shaving ritual. After shaving Brihaspati's head, Mama gave him new clothes and money as dakshina. Then the boy was asked to choose his favourites among; books, pens, fruits, khukuri etc. The shy boy pondered for a while and chose "Elementry Chemistry book". "Oh this means he will be a master saheb (teacher) just like his father, his elder cousin mocked him and laughter shook the weak walls of the shed.
The Chewar was over within half an hour which was followed by giving him tika (red forehead marking) by all his family members, relatives and eventually by my mother, also giving his presents for this initiation ceremony.
According to Brihaspati's aunt, Celebrant is tied as cow in shed made him chew herbs while shaving his head, because before chewar boys are like animals (I hope she meant cute animals like puppy, hehe). Undergoing/observing this ritual leads him to manhood and also qualifies him to participate in the death rites when his parents die.

Amchi Conference

I attended a conference today at Martin Chautari on Tibetan Medicine and healers. 4 Tibetan Medicine scholars led it;

Dr. Sienna Craig, Dartmouth College

Calum Blaikie, University of Kent

Barbara Gerke, Humbolt University

Theresia Hofer, University of Oslo.

They came to Nepal as THE HIMALAYAN AMCHI ASSOCIATION, which was founded in 1998. Also partly supported by Ministry of Health and CTEVT.

It was 8 daylong workshop programme on “Making Efficacious Medicines”. Amchis (Tibetan medical doctors) from various parts of Nepal, India and Tibet participated and shared their experience. Educated one another about their recipe of medicines, so and so forth. Unfortunately I did not get chance to participate in the workshop but I attended last day talk at Martin Chautari.

Dr. Sienna, Calum, Barabara and Theresia took their turn and explained about the situation of Tibetan Medicines and amchis in Nepal, China, Tibet and India.

Here are the few interesting points that I found interesting and jotted down as notes:

- I always had misconception that Ayurveda and Tibetan medicine were same.

-To become an Amchi, one has to excel in botany, geography, geology, chemistry, trading (sell them), and also at the end in teaching.

Botany- to identify the plants/herbs

Geography/Geology- to understand what plants grow at which climate or palces

Chemistry: Knowledge of proportion of several herbs to make medicine.

Trading: right skill to sell the medicines

Teaching: Teach medical studies to the generation next.

-According to Amchis, their laboratory is their tongue. They taste to test the quality and efficacy of the ingredients.

-Amchis are constantly working on finding substitutions for the must-ingredients from endangered animals like rhino horn, tiger paw, elephant gallbladder etc. And same goes for the endangered plants too. Meanwhile, lots of fake ingredients are also in market to influence. For eg: vendor rub sandal wood on normal wood and sell it as sandal wood.

-Amchis in India, China and Tibet no more medicines on their own. Factories do their job. This is one of the demerits, due to the institutionalization after their government recognized/certified the Tibetan medicine and its practice.

-Tibetan Medical Hospitals in China and Tibet are blooming in comparison to Nepal, where Tibetan Medical practice is still to be recognized and certified by Government. Hospitals there receive 300 patients everyday. Their factories produce 100 different types of medicines everyday. But there is no practice of cultivation of herbs for future. Consequently, these herbs will extinct in next 20 years.

-Bulk (70%) of the Tibetan medicine ingredients are exported from Nepal, and rest 30% from other parts of the world (Tibet, India, China).

-Nepal Gov doesn’t even know the term “Amchi”, although the practice has existed in Nepal for 1000 years. Due to the dialect problem Amchis of rural areas of Nepal are not organized or institutionalized and still are individuals. Somehow, Amchis from all over Nepal need to come together as a team. They have to work and understand one another and voice their way to get approval from Government.

For that, Amchis at least need to make medicines and prove that they scientifically and practically will cure certain chronic disease.

Also delineate merits of Tibetan medicine v/s western medicine.

-Does one need to be Buddhist to practice Tibetan Medical Science, because Rimpoches (Buddhist masters) empower every medicine before distribution? The empowerment ritual is called Wong.

-What role does empowerment play in medicine? Do Tibetan medicines need mandatory empowerment? Does the process increase the value of Tibetan medicine or is it ok just to use them without empowering?

-According to SOWA RIGPA; medical science should be separated from religion.

-According to Amchis in Lhasa: One doesn’t have to be monk to practice Tibetan medical science. HH Dalai Lama supports it too.

As a sum up, it was wonderful experience to participate in the conference. I learnt many things besides just knowing how to spell amchi.

Other thing that fascinated me was the questions from Anthropology students. Sienna and team were really mesmerized at the participation and interest.

From my past experience at various conferences, the question-answer round was really funny in a bad way, because there, journalist never failed to make fool out of themselves with the kind of questions they ask.